玛丽安•穆尔豪斯Marion Morehouse

The partnership of Edward Steichen and Marion Morehouse changed the course of fashion photography. As chief photographer for Vogue and Vanity Fair, Steichen propelled both titles into the age of modernism. And they came no more modern and streamlined than model Marion Morehouse, with her sleek head, attenuated limbs and ramrod back, all accentuated by Steichen’s dramatic lighting. At a stroke, his predecessor Baron de Meyer’s soft-focus aesthetic looked outmoded and trivial. Vogue’s proprietor Condé Nast told Steichen: “Every woman de Meyer photographs looks like a model. You make every model look like a woman.”

爱德华•史泰钦(Edward Steichen)与玛丽安•穆尔豪斯(Marion Morehouse)的合作改变了时尚摄影的发展轨道。作为《Vogue》与《名利场》(Vanity Fair)的首席摄影师，史泰钦让两本杂志迈入了现代主义时期。但它们的现代感和流线感都比不过模特玛丽安•穆尔豪斯，她的头部线条圆润、四肢修长、背部笔直，史泰钦的用光又进一步强化了这些特点。转眼之间，史泰钦前任德迈耶男爵(Baron de Meyer)的柔焦美学就变得过时而又不值一提。Vogue的老板康泰•纳仕(Condé Nast)曾对史泰钦说：“德迈耶镜头下的每个女人看上去都像模特。而你让每个模特看上去都像女人。”

According to Steichen, “Miss Morehouse was no more interested in fashion than I was. But when she put on the clothes that were to be photographed, she transformed herself into a woman who would really wear that gown or that riding habit …” That models became so recognisable that they began to fascinate the public is often traced back to Marion Morehouse. And with justification. She was not an actress or a society figure but something new entirely, a dedicated model, and Vogue began to use her name in credit lines.

据史泰钦说，“穆尔豪斯和我一样对时尚界兴趣寥寥。但只要她穿上那些要拍摄的服装，那件晚礼服或是女式骑马装就像真正属于她一样……”后来模特们得到公众的认可，甚至开始让公众着迷，玛丽安•穆尔豪斯常常被视为第一人。这合情合理。她既不是女演员，也不是社交名媛，而是专职模特，这是一种全新的职业。Vogue杂志开始在作者栏中列出她的名字。

Morehouse was equipped with a joie de vivre and a keen sense of adventure. When Steichen suggested they do a series of experimental nude photographs, she readily agreed. On learning that she was married, he destroyed the negatives to spare her any future embarrassment.

穆尔豪斯极富生活情趣和冒险精神。当史泰钦提出拍摄一组试验性的裸照时，她毫不犹豫便答应了。得知她结婚后，史泰钦毁掉了所有的底片，以免她日后感到尴尬。